Topaz plugins and Topaz studio, serve fine either independently or through CS6 with recent RAW. I continue to use CS6 not just for itself, but as a front-end for a growing number of filter packages. My primary systems are Canon 5D Mk4, an 80D and a pair of Sony mirrorless, a NEX 7 and an A7R. The cameras I've accumulated in the last few years generate RAW that CS6 won't handle with the exception of the Leica DNG files.I could convert, but am not really inclined to do that. I've continued to use Photoshop and Lightroom in the last downloaded version and whatever updates come.
FASTRAWVIEWER CONVERT TO JPG INSTALL
My most recent is CS6, the last to install by download or disk. Photoshop has been a lead element for a couple of decades.
I've used it for several years and find it very useful, primarily as a pre-editor. I'm now a paying customer at $20 (full regular price), it's a steal. I don't think FRV is a huge advantage there compared to a JPEG-based viewer (ie, one which just displays the embedded JPEG versions and histograms etc), but I also periodically do more landscape/architecture shots which will really benefit from the raw histogram feature. I just went through a softball tournament shoot, where I'm not looking at bracketed exposures but rather looking for proper focus, capturing the action, faces, etc.
You might also be interested in "What is FastRawViewer? Part 2" which gives a good example of why using the Raw histogram is critical to culling rather than the JPEG or in-camera histograms.
The culling workflow one is at the bottom. The videos are on YouTube, linked from their site at. One of them is a culling workflow video which really goes into detail of determining which bracketed shot is "best", specifically exposing to the right on all three raw channels (or rather, the right-most RAW channel) to avoid clipping of important (as opposed to specular) highlights, and providing the most low-end room in the shadows to minimize noise. I was also just looking into FastRawViewer for myself, and happened across some well-thought-out videos on their site. Then look at these candidates and pick the image with the widest exposure range that does not clip the shadows (In my case for Pany Lumix FZ-1000 the dynamic range is about 10 EV).
FASTRAWVIEWER CONVERT TO JPG SERIES
Digger also looks very good but might be too much of a technical distraction.Īny advice on how best to use FRV to select the "best" from a series of bracketed exposures? From advice in FRV vids and tuts I guess I look for an exposure with not more than 0,3 EV per channel (is this the correct value?) of over-exposure in important areas.